Howcast

How to Paint with an Air Compressor

Howcast — Wed, 06 Apr 2011 14:48:09 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Wear safety gear Wear safety gear such as a respirator or mask, safety glasses, and gloves before working with any paint, primer, or stain. Avoid serious injury.
Step 2: Connect spray gun Connect the spray gun attachment to your compressor using the appropriate high-pressure hose, connectors, and regulators.
TIP: Check your spray gun for the amount of air flow needed in cubic feet per minute and make sure your compressor can deliver at least that amount.
Step 3: Mix paint or primer Follow the directions on the package to mix the paint or primer with the solvent in the right ratios to get the correct consistency.
TIP: The ratio of solvent to paint will depend on the gun you are using, the tip size, and the type of paint or primer.
Step 4: Use a small tip Use the smallest tip you can to atomize the paint or primer for an even coating that will look great and last several years.
Step 5: Tune the gun Test the spray pattern on a piece of cardboard and tune the knob on the side to adjust the air and paint mixture to get the finest splatter pattern possible. Do this each time you paint.
Step 6: Paint away Paint with even, fluid movements back and forth at a consistent speed. Be sure to overlap each layer for an even coat. Wait for the first layer to dry before repeating if needed — usually 12-24 hours — and enjoy the results.
FACT: Liquids, unlike gases, cannot be compressed into a smaller volume under natural conditions. Water can be compressed, but it takes a tremendous amount of energy for a very small result.

You Will Need

Respirator or mask
Safety glasses
Gloves
Spray gun attachment
Compressor
Hose
Paint or primer

How to Stretch a Canvas

Howcast — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 14:31:01 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Pick a size Decide what size canvas you’d like to build. Write down the width and height of the canvas.
Step 2: Cut wood to size Using the miter saw, cut your 1 by 2-inch wood to size by trimming your lengths of wood at 45 degree angles.
Step 3: Cut trim to size Repeat the same process for the ¼-inch, ¼-round trim.
Step 4: Sand pieces Sand down the cut surfaces of your pieces gently and briefly to remove stray bits and particles and provide a good, even surface.
Step 5: Join two pieces Put a dab of glue on the cut faces of two of your 1 by 2-inch pieces and join them together to form a right angle.
TIP: Use the carpenter’s square to make sure your joints are square.
Step 6: Mop excess glue Use the damp rag to mop up any excess glue that pushed out of the seam at the corner.
Step 7: Repeat for all corners Repeat the process for the other corners.
Step 8: Fasten joints with staples Drive 3 or 4 staples perpendicular to and straddling the seams to fasten the joints of your canvas together. The product is your stretcher bar.
TIP: If your stretcher bars are large, cut angled braces to attach to each corner for support.
Step 9: Glue trim to canvas Carefully place the ¼-inch, ¼-round strips on to the glue so that the slope of the round trim is facing the inside of the canvas, and the ¼-rounds and 1×2-inch wood are flush on the outside.
Step 10: Nail trim to stretcher bars Carefully tap the finish nails through the ¼-round strips and into the 1×2-inch parts of the stretcher bars. The ¼-round trim will elevate the canvas off of the stretcher bars, so that the stretcher bars do not affect the painting.
Step 11: Push nails below surface Use a nail set or another nail to push the finish nails below the surface of the wood to prevent it from tearing the canvas.
Step 12: Set aside to dry Set the stretcher bars aside to dry for a couple of hours.
Step 13: Set canvas face down Set your canvas out flat and face down.
Step 14: Put stretcher bars on top Set your stretcher bars on top, with the ¼-round strips in contact with the canvas.
Step 15: Pull canvas up Beginning with the right side of the stretcher bars, pull the canvas up in the middle onto the back of the stretcher bars and staple it down with a staple running parallel to the stretcher bar it’s fastened to. Pull firmly.
Step 16: Repeat on each side and corner Repeat this on each corner and side.
TIP: Do not pull so tight that the stretcher bars bend out of square. At this point, you’ll have funny corners sticking up into the air.
Step 17: Repeat above staple Pick an area a few inches above your staple and repeat Steps 14 through 16 over again, moving toward the corners.
Step 18: Pull material on corner to side Go to the bottom right corner, pinch the canvas in your hands and pull the material to one side or the other.
TIP: Generally you pull toward the long side of the stretcher bars.
Step 19: Fold material down back Fold the material back and around the stretcher bars as you would when folding and tucking in a sheet on a bed.
Step 20: Fasten material Fasten the material to the back of the canvas with a couple of staples.
Step 21: Repeat for corners Repeat Steps 18 through 20 for the opposite corner, then the adjacent corners.
Step 22: Cut excess canvas The back probably looks a little sloppy, so use scissors or a craft knife to cut away excess canvas.
FACT: The famed Austrian painter Friedensreich Hundertwasser almost always stretched his own canvas.

You Will Need

1×2-in. lengths of wood long enough to form the perimeter of your canvas
1/4-round lengths of trim
1/2 to 5/8-in. carpentry staples
A staple gun
Wood glue
Finish nails
A hammer
A miter saw or box saw
Raw canvas
Medium grit sandpaper
A carpenter’s square
A damp rag
Scissors or a craft knife
A large
wide
and flat work surface
like a clean floor

How to Learn Flower Painting Techniques

Howcast — Tue, 25 May 2010 11:32:25 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Draw flowers Draw flowers to get an idea of their shape and structure. Start with a flower like the perennial tulip. It has a simple shape so it is easier to draw.
TIP: Keep the head of the flower centered on the tip of the stem.
Step 2: Use photographs Use photographs of flowers for your subject when you first start painting. The photographs should be clear, well lit, and close to the flower.
TIP: Take your own pictures of flowers in pots, boxes, gardens, green houses, or in environments flowers are not typically found.
Step 3: Experiment with brushes Experiment with brush sizes. Use a wide brush for the petals, and a number three or six round sable brush for adding detail.
Step 4: Be bold Be bold with colors. Use bright colors for the head of the flower.
Step 5: Contrast Contrast elements in the painting by using colors that are at opposite ends of the color wheel, also known as complementary colors.
Step 6: Add depth Lay down colors over the petals to add depth to the painting. Look at the areas of the flower where the colors go from cool to warm or light to dark.
TIP: Pay attention to areas on the flower where the other petals and objects are reflected in the surface of the flower.
Step 7: Paint from real life Paint from real life after you have mastered painting from photographs. Start by painting flowers in artificial light. Artificial light is constant, making the flowers easier to paint.
Step 8: Reference the work of others Look at the work of other artists who paint flowers and observe their composition techniques — what colors they select and the lighting they use. Reference their work to improve your own technique.
FACT: The largest flower in the world is the Rafflesia arnoldii of the Indonesian rain forest. When in bloom, it reaches up to 3 feet in diameter and smells like rotting meat.

You Will Need

Flowers
Cartridge paper
Drawing or colored pencils
Pictures of flowers
Canvas
Wide brush
Number 3 or 6 round sable brush
Paint
Flower paintings
Camera (optional)

How to Paint a Mural with a Projector

Howcast — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 13:01:25 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Make copies Make two copies of the image you’ve selected for the mural: one in color, and one black and white. Then use the black and white copy to make a copy on to a transparency.
Step 2: Position the image Put the projector on a tray or table a few feet from, and facing the wall; then plug it in. Place the transparency on the projector and turn it on. Position the projector so the image is the right size and in the right place on the wall.
TIP: Make sure the projector is directly facing the wall. If it’s at an angle it will distort the image.
Step 3: Trace the image Trace the image on the wall using a pencil, correcting mistakes with the eraser.
Step 4: Lay the drop cloth Lay a drop cloth in front of the wall to protect the floor from paint.
Step 5: Mix and paint Using the color copy as a reference, select a color to apply first. Pour the paint into a cup, or on to a plate and use a paintbrush to apply it to the wall everywhere the color appears. Rinse and dry the brush after use.
Step 6: Fill in and outline Move on to other colors until the mural is completely filled in. If necessary, wait until it’s dry; then outline sections of the painting with a fine-tip brush dipped in black paint. Voila! A masterpiece!
FACT: Did you know? In the 1930s, the WPA Federal Art Project, established to employ artists during the Great Depression, was responsible for 2,566 murals across the United States.

You Will Need

An image
An indoor wall
An overhead projector
A pencil and eraser
A drop cloth
Acrylic paints
Paper plates or cups
Paintbrushes

How to Paint with Oils

Howcast — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 09:16:18 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Buy quality oil paint and brushes Buy oil paints from an art supplier, where well-formulated oil paints are less likely to dry yellow and brittle or harden in the tube. Get sable brushes of various shapes and sizes.
TIP: Keep in mind that paints with cadmium will dry in days rather than hours.
Step 2: Pretreat with gesso Pretreat an already stretched canvas with gesso. To further fill pores and smooth the surface, use fine sandpaper, and cover a second time. Once the gesso dries, sketch your scene.
Step 3: Squeeze paint on palette Set the canvas on the easel. Squeeze out the “fat” or thick paint from the bottom of the tube onto the palette.
Step 4: Mix linseed and mineral spirits Mix linseed oil into the darker colors to be used on the under-painting, since it dries better. Use the palette knife to work in mineral spirits to make the paint lean and elastic.
TIP: Essential oils like turpentine evaporate well and are good thinners. Resins and balsams add clarity and gloss.
Step 5: Brush lightly Use a light hand when applying the paint, and a wider stroke when applying more medium.
Step 6: Correct mistakes Correct mistakes, wiping away the paint with the palette knife and use a turpentine-dipped, lint-free cloth to finish removing. When you repaint, sand that surface first and moisten it with a touch of mineral oil.
Step 7: Clean brushes as you paint Dip the brush in a cup filled with a small amount of turpentine to clean as you paint. Dry the painting in light whenever possible, as daylight cures the colors better.
TIP: Painting thinner layers over a thick drying layer will distort the surface of the painting.
Step 8: Finish session Wipe your knife and handles with rags when you’re finished. Stir the brushes in solvent, but don’t soak them overnight. Scoop leftover globs of paint from the palette so that the surface is smooth for the next round.
FACT: Did you know? Oil paints were originally used only for utilitarian purposes, until the discovery of turpentine as an effective thinning agent.

You Will Need

A variety of colored oil paints
Sable brushes
A stretched canvas
Gesso
Fine sandpaper
An easel
A palette
Linseed oil
A palette knife
Mineral spirits
Turpentine
Lint-free cloth
A cup
Rags
Paints with cadmium (optional)
Resins (optional)
Balsams (optional)

How to Paint with Watercolors

Howcast — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 10:15:58 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Pick out paints Pick out non-staining watercolor paints, which do not fade in short durations. Check the “Lightfast” indicator on the tube.
Step 2: Soak and dry paper Soak a rough 140-pound or thicker stock paper with “tooth” – dips and grooves – which will be less likely to wrinkle when wet. Dry it and tape it to a board inclined about 15 degrees, and smooth it out.
Step 3: Sketch an image Sketch a simple box image on the paper in pencil, rinse a number 10 or 12 brush in the water cup and blot it dry. Load it with color from the palette and touch it to the paper.
TIP: Use less water to keep the colors bright, and don’t go back over an area repeatedly, or you may inadvertently leave dark lines.
Step 4: Paint first line Paint a uniform line and lift your brush. If a narrow bead didn’t form, you pressed too hard, so try again, releasing the bead as you lift.
Step 5: Continue filling Continue filling the area, tilting the brush handle up to maintain a light touch, and letting the watercolor bead paint the wash for you.
TIP: Use a hair dryer to work faster, but be careful: you can accidentally make colors bleed or run.
Step 6: Absorb excess paint Absorb excess paint with a tissue to blot the brush, instead of rinsing. Touch the dried brush into the paint to draw the excess off the painting’s surface.
Step 7: Continue experimenting Continue experimenting with color and textures on different paper surfaces, using an array of brushes and color mixes. Read and study to develop your technique over time.
FACT: The textures and patterns of watercolor can be computer-generated.

You Will Need

Watercolor paints
Paper with "tooth"
Tape
A drawing board
Pencils
A water cup
A number 10 or 12 brush
A palette
A plastic cup of water
A clean cotton rag
Some tissue paper
A hair dryer (optional)

How to Paint with Acrylics

Howcast — Mon, 14 Dec 2009 17:15:41 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Choose a surface Choose a surface for your painting. Canvas is the most common, but wood, masonite, and many others are also used.
Step 2: Pick your colors Choose only a few colors, mixing them for countless shades.
Step 3: Buy basic brushes Buy a few basic brushes: a large gesso brush to prepare canvas, a fine round brush for detailed work, and a flat inch-wide brush.
TIP: Splurge for better brushes. Cheap ones tend to shed hair.
Step 4: Prepare the canvas Prepare your surface with gesso to make it smooth. Apply an even layer and let it dry. Lightly sand and repeat until your desired smoothness is achieved.
Step 5: Use a medium to dilute acrylic Use a medium, such as a gel retarder or gesso primer, and water to dilute acrylic paint. It will help prevent cracking, and your painting will last longer.
TIP: Mediums also add texture to your acrylics.
Step 6: Add to your collection Add a palette knife, fan brush, and other tools to your collection to create your personal style.
FACT: Did you know? Medieval gesso was a mixture of plaster of paris, white lead, and red clay for color.

You Will Need

A painting surface
Acrylic paint
Brushes
Gesso
Fine sandpaper
A medium
A pallet knife
A fan brush
Miscellaneous tools

How to Clean Oil Paint Off Paintbrushes

Howcast — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 13:47:12 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Prep with paint thinner The first step to cleaning oil paint off of a brush begins before you’ve even started painting. Dip your dry brush into paint thinner, carefully shake off the excess, and then proceed to paint.
Step 2: Don’t let it dry out Whenever you take a break, wrap the paintbrush in a clean rag that’s been soaked in paint thinner. Keep the wrapped brush out of the sun.
Step 3: Swish with paint thinner When you’re ready to quit for the day, fill a container to the halfway point with paint thinner, and swish the brush around for about 30 seconds.
TIP: Don’t soak the brush; the solvent will weaken the bristles.
Step 4: Comb Run a paintbrush comb through the brush.
Step 5: Swish again Fill another container with fresh paint thinner, and swish the brush around once again.
Step 6: Rinse Fill a third container with warm water, add a few squirts of dishwashing liquid, and gently move the brush back and forth in the soapy water, taking care not to hit the bottom.
Step 7: Drip dry Hang the brush by its handle to dry.
TIP: If you failed to follow these steps and you have a brush with hardened bristles, revive it by soaking it in hot vinegar.
Step 8: Dispose of paint thinner Dispose of the used paint thinner properly.
FACT: Sixty-three percent of Americans have more than two cans of paint stored in a basement or garage for touch-ups.

You Will Need

Paint thinner
A clean rag
Three clean containers
A paintbrush comb
Soapy water

How to Use an Airbrush

Howcast — Fri, 22 May 2009 12:34:14 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Sketch out painting Lightly sketch out your painting on the hot-press board.
Step 2: Erase extra lines Erase any extra lines and go over the ones you need to reduce them as much as possible.
Step 3: Mix paint with water Mix some paint with water in the airbrush bowl or jar.
TIP: Practice this to find the right consistencies for the effects you’re after. In some cases, you won’t need any water at all.
Step 4: Use airbrush on scrap Try out your airbrush for a while on scrap paper to get used to the lever and button.
TIP: Use a double-action airbrush, which allows you to control air and paint volume independently.
Step 5: Wash out airbrush Practice washing out the airbrush by immersing it into the bucket far enough for the brush to cycle water through the paint bowl.
Step 6: Dry out airbrush Then practice blowing the water out of the airbrush against your scrap paper or the rag until the airbrush is clean and dry.
Step 7: Mix a color Once you’re done practicing, it’s time to mix the first color you’ll use on your painting.
TIP: Generally, you’ll want to work from the lightest colors to darkest.
Step 8: Paint general areas Start painting general areas.
Step 9: Cover areas from the paintbrush Use the craft knife to shape the frisket or copy paper and mask off areas from the airbrush.
Step 10: Move to a new area When you’re done with an area, move to the next.
Step 11: Seal the paint When you’re done with the actual painting, use a fixative to seal the painting in place.
Step 12: Wash out airbrush Thoroughly wash out the airbrush when you’re finished, particularly if you’re using a paint that dries hard like some acrylics or enamel paints.
Step 13: Disassemble Disassemble the airbrush to make sure you’ve fully cleaned it. Be very careful with the airbrush needle, which is very delicate and easily breakable.
Step 14: Admire your creation Admire your creation. Like Marcel Duchamp wrote, ‘Can one make works which are not of art?’
FACT: The first airbrush was invented in 1879.

You Will Need

A double-action airbrush set
including hoses
jars
and bowls
A compressor or compressed air tank
A well-ventilated space
Ink or acrylic paints
A rag
A hot-press board
A pencil
An artist’s eraser
Craft knife
An easel or drafting table
Frisket or copy paper
Artistu2019s tape
Scrap paper
Fixative
A small bucket
And some water
An air-filtering mask

How to Paint a Landscape

Howcast — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 10:55:06 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Choose your paint Choose if you want to work in oil, acrylic or watercolor. Whatever you decide, choose the appropriate paints for your medium.
Step 2: Get a filbert brush Leave all of your brushes at home except for a single filbert brush. As you progress in landscapes, add and experiment with other brushes.
Step 3: Bring water and rags Bring lots of water and rags.
Step 4: Set up your easel In the middle of the day, go set up your easel In a comfortable location that has a good view.
TIP: The light changes the least over a given number of hours in the middle of the day.
Step 5: Sketch your drawing Using the pencil, sketch your painting on your sketch pad. Make only very rough shapes — triangles, arcs, blobs —to give it a general look and feel.
TIP: Painting is less about the medium (paint, pastel, pencil) and more about how you create the image. Drawings use lines. Paintings use shape.
Step 6: Work out values When you’re happy with the composition, it’s time to work out the values, or lightness and darkness. On a scale of 1 to 10, choose a key object with a middle value.
Step 7: Eye the composition Eye your composition, or structure. What’s lighter than the object you chose? What’s darker? What’s in between and by how much?
Step 8: Choose values for all other objects Using that value as your key, begin choosing values for all of the other objects in your composition.
Step 9: Color your key object Once you’re done, turn to the canvas and select a color for the key object.
TIP: You will probably need to mix paints to get the value you need.
Step 10: Paint the rough key object Paint the rough shape of your key object.
TIP: Wash your brush thoroughly between colors in your jar of water. Dry on a rag.
Step 11: Paint another object Choose an object touching your key object. Choose a color and assign it a middle value. Paint its rough shape. Stick to the middle values, avoiding highlights and shadows at this stage.
Step 12: Keep painting Keep working around your composition until you’ve blocked off the whole piece.
Step 13: Appraise composition Step back and look at your composition. Does it feel right?
Step 14: Assign and develop contrast Now go back in to your piece and begin assigning and painting colors with more accurate values for ever-smaller shapes around the piece. Your contrast will begin to develop.
TIP: Start with lighter values, then move toward darker values.
Step 15: Add shadows Add in your shadows in. Generally, you’ll want a cooler color. Avoid pure black.
Step 16: Add highlights Finally, add the highlights. These will be something in the family of the color of your light source, but avoid pure white.
Step 17: Sign and date the painting When you’re satisfied with your painting, sign the front, and, when it’s dry, use a marker on the back to identify the title, place, and date.
FACT: Color theory is the practice of picking and identifying colors for specific situations, like in advertising or design.

You Will Need

A pre-stretched and gessoed canvas
An easel
Paints
A filbert brush
Water
A jar
Rags
A palette
A pencil
And a sketchpad

How to Make Your Own Oil Paints

Howcast — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 10:33:37 +0000

Instructions

: Making oil paints will put you in direct contact with fumes that may be harmful. Do the following with a mask and in a well-ventilated area.
Step 1: Put on safety gear Put on all the safety gear.
: A lot of pigments used in manufacturing paints are surprisingly poisonous. Raw pigment powder is very fine and easily inhaled by accident.
Step 2: Put pigment on grinding slab Place a small amount of pigment on your grinding slab.
TIP: Marble is more durable than glass, but marble is porous, which makes it harder to clean. Either way, make sure the surface underneath your grinding slab is clean and level.
Step 3: Add small amount of linseed oil Add a very small amount of linseed oil.
Step 4: Mix pigment and linseed oil Use the muller to mash and mix the pigment and linseed oil slowly. Note what time you start this step.
Step 5: Improve consistency Add pigment or linseed oil to improve the consistency.
TIP: Different kinds of linseed oil have different properties — tack, drying time, etc., — so you’ll want to experiment.
Step 6: Move the mixture to middle Use the spatula to chase the mixture back into the middle of the grinding slab. Roughly 30 minutes of work will get you normal consistency.
Step 7: Note the time Once you’re happy, note the time it took from step four until now. Different pigments take different amounts of time to mix with the oil—in the future, you’ll know what to expect.
Step 8: Pack the paint into tubes Using your spatula, sweep up the oil paint and pack it into the empty paint tubes.
Step 9: Seal the tubes with pliers Firmly roll the open end of the tube and use pliers to smash the end down to an airtight seal.
TIP: Pay special attention to the corners. They’re easy to miss.
Step 10: Label each tube Label each tube for color and date of manufacture.
Step 11: Clean grinding slab Thoroughly clean your grinding slab as soon as possible.
Step 12: Store in airtight jars Store your oil and pigments properly in airtight jars.
TIP: To reduce the amount of air in your oil, drop glass marbles into the bottom to raise the level of fluid in the jar.
Step 13: Use as needed Use the paints as needed.
FACT: Commercially manufactured oil paints contain stabilizers, preservatives, and other substances that help extend the paints’ shelf lives but can adversely affect the quality of the paint.

You Will Need

Pigments
Linseed oil
Rubber gloves
A safety respirator or mask
Safety glasses or goggles
A sheet of glass or marble at least a quarter-inch thick
A grinding slab
A Muller
A palette knife or spatula
Cleaning solution
Empty paint tubes
Labels
Marker
A clock or one-hour timer
Canvas-stretching pliers
And airtight jars

How to Paint a Portrait

Howcast — Tue, 17 Feb 2009 08:17:20 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Set up Set up your easel.
Step 2: Let the model dress Let the model, who should be dressed and coiffed in the way they want to be immortalized, get comfortable.
Step 3: Pose the model Pose the model in a way that is comfortable, but interesting.
TIP: Do not let the model show teeth. They’ll end up looking like a monster, or worse.
Step 4: Light from the side Light the model from the side with a powerful, directional light. Avoid flat light.
Step 5: Take pictures Take a lot of photos.
Step 6: Give your model a break Give your model a short break.
Step 7: Sketch your model Sketch your model in charcoal, conté, pencil, or pastels.
TIP: Try to get a handle on the composition, contrast and the shape of the face. Pay special attention to particularly interesting features, like the shape of the model’s eyes or nose.
Step 8: Give model another break Give your model another break.
Step 9: Do more sketches Do at least one more sketch, with the final one in color.
TIP: You may wish to use watercolors or acrylics for this last rendering. Oils also can be used, but the cleanup time is longer, which takes more out of your model and slows down the discovery process.
Step 10: Release the model Thank and release your model.
Step 11: Develop the pictures Develop or import and print the photos.
Step 12: Prepare Prep your painting surface, supplies, and materials.
Step 13: Use the sketches to remind you On the final piece, use the sketches and photos to remind yourself about what you saw as important features.
TIP: The photos will give you a literal translation, but the sketches are where the real artistry will be found.
Step 14: Block shapes and colors Begin the portrait by blocking in the general shapes and colors.
Step 15: Refine your shapes Refine your shapes.
Step 16: Limit but innovate Look for ways both to limit and make surprising use of your color palette.
Step 17: Paint until done Paint until you’re satisfied. It’s tough, so the first few—or few dozen—might not turn out great.
FACT: What is believed to be the oldest known portrait was created some 27,000 years ago on a cave wall near the town of Angelouême in present-day southwestern France.

You Will Need

An easel
A volunteer model
Directional lights
A camera
Drawing and painting surfaces
A sketching medium
like charcoal or pencil
Brushes
Paints

How to Gesso a Canvas

Howcast — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 07:01:52 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Combine gesso and water In a plastic mixing bowl, combine gesso and water, according to the instructions on the gesso container.
Step 2: Mix Mix vigorously.
TIP: Mix the substance thoroughly and smoothly, into a consistency similar to melted chocolate. It should run off the spoon like paint and have no lumps.
Step 3: Spread drop cloth Place some drop cloth down in your work area.
Step 4: Lay canvas on cloth Lay the canvas down on top of the drop cloth.
Step 5: Sand down surface Gently sand the canvas surface down to get rid of stray strands of cotton and create a consistent, even surface.
Step 6: Wet and blot brush Wet your house paintbrush with water and squeeze it dry so it doesn’t soak up excess gesso.
Step 7: Plop gesso on canvas Plop a dollop of gesso on to the canvas and begin working it back and forth in parallel strokes with a house paintbrush. The gesso should be as evenly and thinly distributed as possible.
TIP: Some painters prefer to use a squeegee for this instead of the brush.
Step 8: Coat edges Don’t forget to coat the edges.
TIP: The edges will drip a little, so use a smaller brush to work the excess gesso back into the sides.
Step 9: Wash brush When the first coat is complete, wash your paintbrush thoroughly.
Step 10: Let coat dry Leave the canvas flat and allow it to dry for at least an hour.
Step 11: Blow off primer dust Once the first coat is dry, gently sand it to even out the surface, and then dust off any grit.
Step 12: Repeat with perpendicular strokes Repeat steps 6 through 8, but this time make your strokes perpendicular to the original application of primer.
Step 13: Dry You can continue adding coats until the surface is as smooth as you need it to be, but two will usually suffice. Allow the canvas to dry overnight—now the real work can begin.
FACT: Canvas was first used as backing for paintings during the 15th century Italian Renaissance.

You Will Need

Some gesso
Water
A plastic mixing bowl
Drop cloth
Fine-grit sandpaper
A large 4-inch house paintbrush
Squeegee
A smaller 1/2-inch detail house paintbrush

How to Paint with a Palette Knife

Howcast — Fri, 03 Oct 2008 12:46:10 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Hold knife like a brush Hold the painting knife pretty much the same way you should a paintbrush.
TIP: More specifically, hold the knife so it rests atop the inside of all four fingers—not gripped like a baseball bat or a pencil.
Step 2: Glob the paint on the canvas Glob the paint on to the pre-treated canvas or board and start pushing it around.
Step 3: Feel out the surfaces Get a feel for what the different surfaces—including the edges—of the paint knife can do.
TIP: It helps, though isn’t necessary, to work from light to dark.
Step 4: Watch the paint dry Watch how the paint dries. It might sound boring, but it’s crucial if you care about your work.
TIP: The toughest time to work over a layer of paint is when it’s wet with a dry skin on top. You can work wet-on-dry, but working wet-on-wet is the most common way to go about it.
Step 5: Wipe your knives clean Simply wipe your knives clean with a good, lint-free rag.
TIP: Don’t be afraid to put a little cleaning solution on the rag to get all of the paint off the knife before dipping it back down.
Step 6: Wait for the paint to dry Allow a long time for the paint to dry completely. If you’re wondering if it’s been long enough, it hasn’t.
FACT: You can save a few bucks by buying some of your tools at the hardware store.

You Will Need

A palette knife
Oil paints
Acrylic paints with medium mixed in

How to Choose a Paintbrush

Howcast — Tue, 05 Feb 2008 16:08:14 +0000

Instructions

Step 1: Decide on synthetic or natural Decide if you want a synthetic or natural-fiber brush.
TIP: When starting out, go with the less-expensive synthetic. Save natural-fiber for when you’re more experienced.
Step 2: Choose medium Decide what medium you’ll be working in.
TIP: If you’re painting in acrylics or oils, start with synthetic brushes because these paints are harder to clean out of the brush.
Step 3: Familiarize yourself w/ 8 types Familiarize yourself with the 8 main types of brushes: round, flat, bright, filbert, fan, angle, mop and rigger.
TIP: round brush (closely arranged bristles for detail); flat blush (flat end for quickly moving paint around); bright brush (flat but with shorter, stiffer bristles); filbert brush (domed ends); fan brush (for blending paints); angled brush (general detail brush); mop brush (broad soft paint application); rigger (round brush with long hairs)
Step 4: Hold brush Pick a brush and hold it in your fist, bristles up.
TIP: After rubbing, the whole brush should take its original shape, and no bristles should fall out.
Step 5: Choose flat & filbert Choose two workhorse brushes—a flat and a filbert—as your main brushes.
TIP: Choose the brush size depending on the size of your work. A size 6 is good middle ground to start.
Step 6: Select smaller & larger sizes Choose two more flats and two more filberts, one of each a size smaller and larger than the size you already have.
Step 7: Choose special brushes Select any other special brushes you think you’ll need based on your project. This should be all you need to begin, so grab a canvas and start experimenting!
FACT: Some of the best brushes use the hair of animals, the best being sable brushes from the tail of a sable marten.

You Will Need

An art supply store